The Great Chef and His Culinary Journey

By: Indah Nuritasari. Photos: Hany Desiyanti

On a beautiful autumn afternoon , Widjiono Yono Purnomo or Chef Yono was greeting the guests who were enjoying fine dining at his restaurant, Yono's. He also welcomed some newly arrived people at the entrance to the restaurant located at 25 Chapel Street, Albany, New York. By evening, the largest restaurant in Albany, the state capital of New York, was getting crowded.

Although President Barack Obama, who lived for 4 years in Indonesia as a child, loves Indonesian food, it’s still an unpopular cuisine to most Americans. Chef Yono has gone a long way to change that. He has been promoting and serving Indonesian food for decades to many people from different walks of life, including many U.S, elites , such as president Bill Clinton“.

'' People eat with their eyes. If you already have the imagination and you feel good, everything else would be really good, '' said Purnomo, 64. He started his culinary journey more than forty years ago on a cruise ship. After graduating from a Tourism Institute in bandung, West Java, Purnomo got a job as a waiter at the Holland America Cruise Lines. He gained his knowledge of cooking and English there. It was also on the same ship that he met Donna Metallo, his wife of `37 years.

Maybe there is no restaurants in Albany, or even in other places in America, that rivals Yono’s . In the 165-room Hampton Inn Hotel, Yono’s has a prime ground floor location for his restaurant. Established since 1986, the restaurant is owned and operated by the Purnomo family, and has been recognized by the James Beard Foundation, Wine Spectator, Santé, DiRoNA & The American Culinary Federation among others. Yono’s offers four, five and eight course tasting menus that vary every month.

Sweet Cream Butter Poached Maine Lobster, Char Grilled Colorado Lamb, Twenty Four Hour Braised Short Ribs Rendang, Bakmi Goreng and Nasi Goreng are extremely popular. Cooking with exotic ingredients indigenous to his background, such as coconut milk, sambal, red, yellow and green curry, lemongrass, lime leaves, Chef Yono creates a unique, sophisticated, complex and layered cuisine.

Together with his team, Chef Yono loves to innovate. He and his team has won the Culinary Olympics in London, England in 1996. At that time, all participants who joined the race hid their recipes. '' We did not. We wanted to share the results of our innovation recipe to everyone. We invited them to try, and won first prize, '' said Purnomo. '' We do not keep recipes as secrets '' said the man who grew up in poverty, proudly.

Since then, the Chef Yono’s name became known in the culinary business. He has also gotten some national recognitions and has appeared on the nationally televised events, such asToday Show, TVFood Network and met British chef Gordon Ramsey, and other famous chefs.

So what makes Yono’s so popular?'' American people are always looking for the chef, not the restaurant. '' That’s why I always try to maintain my reputation, '' Chef Yono said seriously. That’s why he always uses high quality materials, and even makes his own butter. No wonder his homemade desserts like Chocolate Rendezvous, Coconut Cream Torte, French Vanilla Cheesecake, Indonesian Bananas Foster, and his Maple Walnut Banana Bread Pudding are to die for.

With around $1.2 million total investment, the restaurant is growing really well. Chef Yono says his annual income from the two restaurants tops $ 3 million. “But we don’t make that much profit because we donate a lot,” he said with a big laughter. Last month, the guy who is also active in Indonesian Diaspora, was helping organizing a business Luncheon with the theme '' Explore Indonesia: New Business and Investment Destination., “ together with the Consulate General of the Republic of Indonesia.

Nearly 50 people attended the event to promote the Indonesian trade, and Yono was one of the speakers. Yono's also involves in the 'Albany Wine Festival' along with 70 chefs and restaurateurs across the US. “The event will showcase around 250 types of wine from around the world, '' said Yono while showing his gorgeous wine cellar at the restaurant.

Not only active in business and education, Purnomo also actively assists the communities in Albany. '' As an American, we have to give back to the local community, '' said Yono. Even so, it does not mean he forgets about Indonesia, his native country. This Solo man flew to Aceh in 2005, a couple months after the Tsunami, to do social work. '' I was so moved and saddened to see that event. Hot weather, no food or drink, and the survivors were stranded and homeless, '' said Purnomo. He went back to America and formed Chef Yono Foundation to provide scholarships for Indonesian students to learn about the culinary and hospitality. The foundation has helped around 600 students from Indonesia and the United States. “Some of them even were trained and lived in the US for three months. And likewise, some American students stayed a few months in several places in Indonesia, '' he said proudly.

The father of 2 adult children who was honored in 2010 with the American Dream Award from the National Restaurant Association at a ceremony in Washington, feels so blessed with what he has achieved in the US.

"To be able to live the American dream -- it's very meaningful for somebody like me who came from another country," Purnomo said. "Cooking is how I share my heritage. I'm so proud and humbled."